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Science NotebookHenley's Book of Formulas, Recipes and Processes
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Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Formulas, Recipes and Processes - Pages 226-250
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COSMETICS
Melt the oil of sweet almonds, wax, and lard together, and stir in the castor oil; make a solution of the borax in the glycerine and rose and orange-flower waters; add this solution, a little at a time, to the melted fat, stirring constantly to insure thorough incorporation; finally add the oil of rose dissolved in the extracts, and beat the ointment until cold.
IV. Spermaceti (pure), 1/4 ounce; white wax (pure), 1/4 ounce; almond oil, 1/4 pound; butter of cocoa, 1/4 pound; lanolin, 2 ounces.
Melt and stir in 1 drachm of balsam of Peru. After settling, pour off the clear portion and add 2 fluidrachms of orange flower water and stir briskly until it concretes.
Camphorated Cold Cream.
Oil of sweet almonds 8 fluidounces
White wax 1 ounce
Spermaceti 1 ounce
Camphor 1 ounce
Rose water 5 fluidounces
Borax (in fine powder) 4 drachms
Oil of rose 10 drops
Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, in which the camphor has been dissolved with very gentle heat; then gradually add the rose water, in which the borax has previously been dissolved, beating or agitating constantly with a wooden spatula until cold.
Lastly add the oil of rose.
Petrolatum Cold Cream.
Petrolatum (white) 7 ounces
Paraffine 1/2 ounce
Lanolin 2 ounces
Water 3 ounces
Oil of rose 3 drops
Alcohol 1 drachm
A small quantity of borax may be added, if desirable, and the perfume may be varied to suit the taste.
LIP SALVES:
Pomades for the Lips. Lip pomatum which is said always to retain a handsome red color and never to grow rancid is prepared as follows:
I.
Paraffine 80.0 parts
Vaseline 80.0 parts
Anchusine 0.5 parts
Bergamot oil 1.0 part
Lemon peel 1.0 part
II. Vaseline Pomade.
Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts
Wax, white 300 parts
Geranium oil, African 40 parts
Lemon oil 20 parts
III. Rose Pomade.
Almond oil 1,000 parts
Wax, white 300 parts
Alkannin 3 parts
Geranium oil 20 parts
IV. Yellow Pomade.
Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts
Wax, white 200 parts
Spermaceti 200 parts
Saffron surrogate. 10 parts
Clove oil 20 parts
V. White Pomade.
Vaseline oil, white 1,000 parts
Wax, white 300 parts
Bitter almond oil, genuine 10 parts
Lemon oil 2 parts
VI.
Paraffine 49.0 parts
Vaseline 49.0 parts
Oil of lemon 0.75 parts
Oil of violet 0.75 parts
Carmine, quantity sufficient.
Lipol. For treating sore, rough, or inflamed lips, apply the following night and morning, rubbing in well with the finger tips: Camphor, 1/2 ounce; menthol, 1/2 ounce; eucalyptol, 1 drachm; petrolatum (white), 1 pound; paraffine, 1/2 pound; alkanet root, 1/2 ounce; oil of bitter almonds, 15 drops; oil of cloves, 10 drops; oil of cassia, 5 drops. Digest the root in the melted paraffine and petrolatum, strain, add the other ingredients and pour into lip jars, hot.
MANICURE PREPARATIONS:
Powdered Nail Polishes.
I.
Tin oxide 8 drachms
Carmine 1/4 drachm
Rose oil 6 drops
Neroli oil 5 drops
II.
Cinnabar 1 drachm
Infusorial earth 8 drachms
III.
Putty powder (fine) 4 drachms
Carmine 2 grains
Oil of rose 1 drop
IV.
White castile soap 1 part
Hot water 16 parts
Zinc chloride solution, 10 per cent, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the soap in the water and to the solution add the zinc-chloride solution until no further precipitation occurs. Let stand over night; pour off the supernatant fluid, wash the precipitate
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COSMETICS
well with water, and dry at the ordinary temperature. Carmine may be added if desired.
Polishing Pastes for the Nails.
I.
Talcum 5 drachms
Stannous oxide 3 drachms
Powdered tragacanth 5 grains
Glycerine 1 drachm
Rose water, quantity sufficient.
Solution of carmine sufficient to tint.
Make paste.
For softening the nails, curing hangnails, etc., an ointment is sometimes used consisting of white petrolatum, 8 parts; powdered castile soap, 1 part; and perfume to suit.
II.
Eosine 10 grains
White wax 1/2 drachm
Spermaceti 1/2 drachm
Soft paraffine 1 ounce
Alcohol, a sufficient quantity.
Dissolve the cosine in as little alcohol as will suffice, melt the other ingredients together, add the solution, and stir until cool.
Nail-Cleaning Washes.
I.
Tartaric acid 1 drachm
Tincture of myrrh 1 drachm
Cologne water 2 drachms
Water 3 ounces
Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tincture of myrrh and cologne, and add to the acid solution.
Dip the nails in this solution, wipe, and polish with chamois skin.
II.
Oxalic acid 30 grains
Rose water 1 ounce
Nail Varnish.
Paraffine wax 60 grains
Chloroform 2 ounces
Oil of rose 3 drops
POMADES:
I. Beef-Marrow Pomade.
Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts
Ceresine, yellow 3,000 parts
Beef marrow 2,000 parts
Saffron substitute 15 parts
Lemon oil 50 parts
Bergamot oil 20 parts
Clove oil 5 parts
Lavender oil 10 parts
II. China Pomade.
Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts
Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts
Brilliant, brown 12 parts
Peru balsam 50 parts
Lemon oil 5 parts
Bergamot oil 5 parts
Clove oil 5 parts
Lavender oil 5 parts
III. Crystalline Honey Pomade. Nut oil, 125 drachms; spermaceti, 15 drachms: gamboge, 2 drachms; vervain oil, 10 drops; cinnamon oil, 20 drops; bergamot oil, 30 drops; rose oil, 3 drops. The spermaceti is melted in the nut oil on a water bath and digested with the gamboge for 20 minutes; it is next strained, scented, and poured into cans which are standing in water. The cooling must take place very slowly. Instead of gamboge, butter color may be used. Any desired scent mixture may be employed.
IV. Herb Pomade.
Vaseline oil, yellow 20,000 parts
Ceresine, yellow 5,000 parts
Chlorophyll 20 parts
Lemon oil 50 parts
Clove oil 20 parts
Geranium oil, African 12 parts
Curled mint oil 4 parts
V. Rose Pomade.
Vaseline oil, white 20,000 parts
Ceresine, white 5,000 parts
Alkannin 15 parts
Geranium oil, African 50 parts
Palmarosa oil 30 parts
Lemon oil 20 parts
VI. Strawberry Pomade. When the strawberry season is on, and berries are plenty and cheap, the following is timely:
Strawberries, ripe and fresh 4 parts
Lard, sweet and fresh 25 parts
Tallow, fresh 5 parts
Alkanet tincture, quantity sufficient.
Essential oil, quantity sufficient to perfume.
Melt lard and tallow together on the water bath at the temperature of boiling water. Have the strawberries arranged on a straining cloth. Add the alkanet tincture to the melted grease, stir in, and then pour the mixture over the berries. Stir the strained fats until the mass be-
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COSMETICS
gins to set, then add the perfume and stir in. A little artificial essence of strawberries may be added. The odor usually employed is rose, about 1 drop to every 2 pounds.
VII. Stick Pomade.
Tallow 500 parts
Ceresine 150 parts
Wax, yellow 50 parts
Rosin, light 200 parts
Paraffine oil (thick) 300 parts
Oil of cassia 5 parts
Oil of bergamot 5 parts
Oil of clove 2 parts
VIII. Vaseline Pomade. Melt 250 parts of freshly rendered lard and 25 parts of white wax at moderate heat and mix well with 200 parts of vaseline. Add 15 parts of bergamot oil, 3 parts of lavender oil, 2 parts of geranium oil, and 2 parts of lemon oil, mixing well.
IX. Witch-Hazel Jelly.
Oil of sweet almonds 256 parts
Extract of witchhazel fluid 10 parts
Glycerine 32 parts
Soft soap 20 parts
Tincture of musk, quantity sufficient to perfume.
Mix in a large mortar the glycerine and soft soap and stir until incorporated. Add and rub in the witch-hazel, and then add the oil, slowly, letting it fall in a very thin, small stream, under constant agitation; add the perfume, keeping up the agitation until complete incorporation is attained. Ten drops of musk to a quart of jelly is sufficient. Any other perfume may be used.
Colors for Pomade. Pomade may be colored red by infusing alkanet in the grease; yellow may be obtained by using annotto in the same way; an oil-soluble chlorophyll will give a green color by admixture.
In coloring grease by means of alkanet or annotto it is best to tie the drug up in a piece of coarse cloth, place in a small portion of the grease, heat gently, squeezing well with a rod from time to time; and then adding this strongly colored grease to the remainder. This procedure obviates exposing the entire mass to heat, and neither decantation nor straining is needed.
Brocq's Pomade for Itching.
Acid phenic 1 part
Acid salicylic 2 parts
Acid tartaric 3 parts
Glycerole of starch 60 to 100 parts
Mix and make a pomade.
White Cosmetique.
Jasmine pomade 2 ounces
Tuberose pomade 2 ounces
White wax 2 ounces
Refined suet 4 ounces
Rose oil 15 minims
Melt the wax and suet over a water bath, then add the pomades, and finally the otto.
Glycerine and Cucumber Jelly.
Gelatin 160 to 240 grains
Boric acid 240 grains
Glycerine 6 fluidounces
Water 10 fluidounces
Perfume to suit. The perfume must be one that mixes without opalescence, otherwise it mars the beauty of the preparation. Orange flower water or rose water could be substituted for the water if desired, or another perfume consisting of
Spirit of vanillin (15 grains
per ounce) 2 fluidrachms
Spirit of coumarin (15 grains
per ounce) 2 fluidrachms
Spirit of bitter almonds (1/8) 8 minims
to the quantities given above would prove agreeable.
Cucumber Pomade.
Cucumber pomade 2 ounces
Powdered white soap 1/2 ounce
Powdered borax 2 drachms
Cherry-laurel water 3 ounces
Rectified spirit 3 ounces
Distilled water to make 48 ounces
Rub the pomade with the soap and borax until intimately mixed, then add the distilled water (which may be warmed to blood heat), ounce by ounce, to form a smooth and uniform cream. When 40 ounces of water have been so incorporated, dissolve any essential oils desired as perfume in the spirit, and add the cherry-laurel water, making up to 48 ounces with plain water.
ROUGES AND PAINTS:
Grease Paints. Theatrical face paints are sold in sticks, and there are many varieties of color. Yellows are obtained with ocher; browns with burnt umber; and blue is made with ultramarine. These colors should in each case be levigated finely along with their own weight
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COSMETICS
of equal parts of precipitated chalk and oxide of zinc and diluted with the same to the tint required, then made into sticks with mutton suet (or vaseline or paraffine, equal parts) well perfumed. By blending these colors, other tints may thus be obtained.
White Grease Paints.
I.
Prepared chalk 4 av. ounces
Zinc oxide 4 av. ounces
Bismuth subnitrate 4 av. ounces
Asbestos powder 4 av. ounces
Sweet almond oil, about 2 1/2 fluidounces
Camphor 40 grains
Oil peppermint 3 fluidrachms
Esobouquet extract 3 fluidrachms
Sufficient almond oil should be used to form a mass of proper consistence.
II.
Zinc oxide 8 parts
Bismuth subnitrate 8 parts
Aluminum oxychloride 8 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient, or 5-6 parts.
Perfume, quantity sufficient.
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum oxychloride thoroughly; make into a paste with the oil. Any perfume may be added, but that generally used is composed of 1 drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 grains of camphor, and 12 minims of oil of peppermint for every 3 1/2 ounces of paste.
Bright Red.
Zinc oxide 10 parts
Bismuth subnitrate 10 parts
Aluminum oxychloride 10 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient.
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts, and to every 4 ounces of the mixture add 2 1/4 grains of cosine dissolved in a drachm of essence of bouquet, 12 minims oil of peppermint, and 12 grains of camphor. Make the whole into a paste with almond oil.
Red.
Cacao butter 4 av. ounces
White wax 4 av. ounces
Olive oil 2 fluidounces
Oil of rose 8 drops
Oil of bergamot 3 drops
Oil of neroli 2 drops
Tincture musk 2 drops
Carmine 90 grains
Ammonia water 3 fluidrachms
Deep, or Bordeaux, Red.
Zinc oxide 30 parts
Bismuth subnitrate 30 parts
Aluminum oxychloride 30 parts
Carmine 1 part
Ammonia water 5 parts
Essence bouquet 3 parts
Peppermint, camphor, etc., quantity sufficient.
Mix the zinc, bismuth, and aluminum salts. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia and add solution to the mixture. Add 24 grains of camphor, and 24 minims of oil of peppermint dissolved in the essence bouquet, and make the whole into a paste with oil of sweet almonds.
Vermilion.
Vermilion 18 parts
Tincture of saffron 12 parts
Orris root, powdered 30 parts
Chalk, precipitated 120 parts
Zinc oxide 120 parts
Camphor 2 parts
Essence bouquet 9 parts
Oil of peppermint 2 parts
Almond oil, quantity sufficient.
Mix as before.
Pink.
Zinc carbonate 250 parts
Bismuth subnitrate 250 parts
Asbestos 250 parts
Expressed oil of almonds 100 parts
Camphor 55 parts
Oil of peppermint 55 parts
Perfume 25 parts
Eosine 1 part
Dark Red. Like the preceding, but colored with a solution of carmine.
Rouge.
Zinc oxide 2 ounces
Bismuth subnitrate 2 ounces
Aluminum plumbate 2 ounces
Eosine 1 drachm
Essence bouquet 2 drachms
Camphor 6 drachms
Oil of peppermint 20 minims
Almond oil, quantity sufficient.
Dissolve the cosine in the essence bouquet, and mix with the camphor and peppermint; add the powder and make into a paste with almond oil.
Black Grease Paints.
I.
Soot 2 av. ounces
Sweet almond oil 2 fluidounces
Cacao butter 6 av. ounces
Perfume, sufficient.
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The soot should be derived from burning camphor and repeatedly washed with alcohol. It should be triturated to a smooth mixture with the oil; then add to the melted cacao butter; add the perfume, and form into sticks.
Brown or other colors may be obtained by adding appropriate pigments, such as finely levigated burned umber, sienna, ocher, jeweler's rouge, etc., to the foregoing base instead of lampblack.
II.
Best lampblack 1 drachm
Cacao butter 3 drachms
Olive oil 3 drachms
Oil of neroli 2 drops
Melt the cacao butter and oil, add the lampblack, and stir constantly as the mixture cools, adding the perfume toward the end.
III.
Lampblack 1 part
Cacao butter 6 parts
Oil neroli, sufficient.
Melt the cacao butter and the lampblack, and while cooling make an intimate mixture, adding the perfume toward the last.
IV.
Lampblack 1 part
Expressed oil of almonds 1 part
Oil cocoanut 1 part
Perfume, sufficient.
Beat the lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine. Apply with a sponge; if necessary, mix a little water with it when using.
V. Beat the finest lampblack into a stiff paste with glycerine and apply with a sponge; if necessary, add a little water to the mixture when using. Or you can make a grease paint as follows: Drop black, 2 drachms; almond oil, 2 drachms; cocoanut oil, 6 drachms; oil of lemon, 5 minims; oil of neroli, 1 minim. Mix.
Fatty Face Powders. These have a small percentage of fat mixed with them in order to make the powder adhere to the skin.
Dissolve 1 drachm anhydrous lanolin in 2 drachms of ether in a mortar.
Add 3 drachms of light magnesia. Mix well, dry, and then add the following: French chalk, 2 ounces; powdered starch, 1 1/2 ounces; boric acid, 1 drachm; perfume, a sufficient quantity. A good perfume is coumarin, 2 grains, and attar of rose, 2 minims.
Nose Putty.
I. Mix 1 ounce wheat flour with 2 drachms of powdered tragacanth and tint with carmine. Take as much of the powder as necessary, knead into a stiff paste with a little water and apply
to the nose, having previously painted it with spirit gum.
II. White wax, 8 parts; rosin, white, 8 parts; mutton suet, 4 parts; color to suit. Melt together.
Rose Powder. As a base take 200 parts of powdered iris root, add 600 parts of rose petals, 100 parts of sandal wood, 100 parts of patchouli, 3 parts of oil of geranium, and 2 parts of true rose oil.
Rouge Tablets. There are two distinct classes of these tablets: those in which the coloring matter is carmine, and those in which the aniline colors are used. The best are those prepared with carmine, or ammonium carminate, to speak more correctly. The following is an excellent formula:
Ammonium carminate 10 parts
Talc, in powder 25 parts
Dextrin 8 parts
Simple syrup, sufficient.
Perfume, to taste, sufficient.
Mix the talc and dextrin and add the perfume, preferably in the shape of an essential oil (attar of rose, synthetic oil of jasmine, or violet, etc.), using 6 to 8 drops to every 4 ounces of other ingredients. Incorporate the ammonium carminate and add just enough simple syrup to make a mass easily rolled out. Cut into tablets of the desired size. The ammonium carminate is made by adding 1 part of carmine to 2 1/2 parts of strong ammonia water. Mix in a vial, cork tightly, and set aside until a solution is formed, shaking occasionally. The ammonium carminate is made by dissolving carmine in ammonia water to saturation.
Rouge Palettes. To prepare rouge palettes rub up together:
Carmine 9 parts
French chalk 50 parts
Almond oil 12 parts
Add enough tragacanth mucilage to make the mass adhere and spread the whole evenly on the porcelain palette.
Liquid Rouge.
I.
Carmine 4 parts
Stronger ammonia water 4 parts
Essence of rose 16 parts
Rose water to make 500 parts
Mix. A very delightful violet odor, if this is preferred, is obtained by using ionone in place of rose essence. A cheaper preparation may be made as follows:
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II.
Eosine 1 part
Distilled water 20 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Cologne water 75 parts
Alcohol 100 parts
Mix.
Rub together with 10 parts of almond oil and add sufficient mucilage of tragacanth to make the mass adhere to the porcelain palette.
III.
Carmine 1 part
Stronger ammonia water 1 part
Attar of rose 4 parts
Rose water 125 parts
Mix. Any other color may be used in place of rose, violet (ionone), for instance, or heliotrope. A cheaper preparation may be made by substituting cosine for the carmine, as follows:
IV.
Eosine 1 part
Distilled water 20 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Cologne water 75 parts
Alcohol 100 parts
Mix.
Peach Tint.
a.
Buffalo cosine 4 drachms
Distilled water 16 fluidounces
Mix.
b.
Pure hydrochloric acid 2 1/2 drachms
Distilled water 64 fluidounces
Mix.
Pour a into b, shake, and set aside for a few hours; then pour off the clear portion and collect the precipitate on a filter. Wash with the same amount of b and immediately throw the precipitate into a glass measure, stirring in with a glass rod sufficient of b to measure 16 ounces in all. Pass through a hair sieve to get out any filtering paper. To every 16 ounces add 8 ounces of glycerine.
Theater Rouge. Base:
Cornstarch 4 drachms
Powdered white talcum 6 drachms
Mix.
a.
Carminoline 10 grains
Base 6 drachms
Water 4 drachms
Dissolve the carminoline in the water, mix with the base and dry.
b.
Geranium red 10 grains
Base 6 drachms
Water 4 drachms
Mix as above and dry.
SKIN FOODS.
Wrinkles on the face yield to a wash consisting of 50 parts milk of almonds (made with rose water) and 4 parts aluminum sulphate. Use morning and night.
Rough skin is to be washed constantly in Vichy water. Besides this, rough places are to have the following application twice daily either a few drops of:
I.
Rose water 100 parts
Glycerine 25 parts
Tannin 3/4 part
Mix. Or use:
II.
Orange-flower water 100 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Borax 2 parts
Mix. Sig.: Apply twice daily.
"Beauty Cream." This formula gives the skin a beautiful, smooth, and fresh appearance, and, at the same time, serves to protect and preserve it:
Alum, powdered 10 grams
Whites of 2 eggs
Boric acid 3 grams
Tincture of benzoin 40 drops
Olive oil 40 drops
Mucilage of acacia 5 drops
Rice flour, quantity sufficient.
Perfume, quantity sufficient.
Mix the alum and the white of eggs, without any addition of water whatever, in an earthen vessel, and dissolve the alum by the aid of very gentle heat (derived from a lamp, or gaslight, regulated to a very small flame), and constant, even, stirring. This must continue until the aqueous content of the albumen is completely driven off. Care must be taken to avoid coagulation of the albumen (which occurs very easily, as all know). Let the mass obtained in this manner get completely cold, then throw into a Wedgwood mortar, add the boric acid, tincture of benzoin, oil, mucilage (instead of which a solution of fine gelatin may be used), etc., and rub up together, thickening it with the addition of sufficient rice flour to give the desired consistence, and perfuming at will. Instead of olive oil any pure fat, or fatty oil, may be used, even vaseline or glycerine.
Face Bleach or Beautifier.
Syrupy lactic acid 40 ounces
Glycerine 80 ounces
Distilled water 5 gallons
Mix. Gradually add
Tincture of benzoin 3 ounces
Color by adding
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COSMETICS
Carmine No. 40 40 grains
Glycerine 1 ounce
Ammonia solution 1/2 ounce
Water to 3 ounces
Heat this to drive off the ammonia, and mix all. Shake, set aside; then filter, and add
Solution of ionone 1 drachm
Add a few drachms of kaolin and filter until bright.
BLACKHEAD REMEDIES.
I.
Lactic acid 1 drachm
Boric acid 1 drachm
Ceresine 1 drachm
Paraffine oil 6 drachms
Hydrous wool fat 1 1/2 ounces
Castor oil 6 drachms
II. Unna advises hydrogen dioxide in the treatment of blackheads, his prescription being:
Hydrogen dioxide 20 to 40 parts
Hydrous wool fat 10 parts
Petrolatum 30 parts
III.
Thymol 1 part
Boric acid 2 parts
Tincture of witch hazel 18 parts
Rose water sufficient to make 200 parts
Mix. Apply to the face night and morning with a sponge, first washing the face with hot water and castile soap, and drying it with a coarse towel, using force enough to start the dried secretions. An excellent plan is to steam the face by holding it over a basin of hot water, keeping the head covered with a cloth.
IV.
Ichthyol 1 drachm
Zinc oxide 2 drachms
Starch 2 drachms
Petrolatum 3 drachms
This paste should be applied at night. The face should first be thoroughly steamed or washed in water as hot as can be comfortably borne. All pustules should then be opened and blackheads emptied with as little violence as possible. After careful drying the paste should be thoroughly rubbed into the affected areas. In the morning, after removing the paste with a bland soap, bathe with cool water and dry with little friction.
HAND CREAMS AND LOTIONS:
Chapped Skin.
I.
Glycerine 8 parts
Bay rum 4 parts
Ammonia water 4 parts
Rose water 4 parts
Mix the bay rum and glycerine, add the ammonia water, and finally the rose water. It is especially efficacious after shaving.
II. As glycerine is bad for the skin of many people, here is a recipe which will be found more generally satisfactory as it contains less glycerine: Bay rum, 3 ounces; glycerine, 1 ounce; carbolic acid, 1/2 drachm (30 drops). Wash the hands well and apply while hands are soft, preferably just before going to bed. Rub in thoroughly. This rarely fails to cure the worst "chaps" in two nights.
III. A sure remedy for chapped hands consists in keeping them carefully dry and greasing them now and then with an anhydrous fat (not cold cream). The best substances for the purpose are unguentum cereum or oleum olivarum.
If the skin of the hands is already cracked the following preparation will heal it:
Finely ground zinc oxide, 5.0 parts; bismuth oxychloride, 2.0 parts; with fat oil, 12.0 parts; next add glycerine, 5.0 parts; lanolin, 30.0 parts; and scent with rose water, 10.0 parts.
IV. Wax salve (olive oil 7 parts, and yellow wax 3 parts), or pure olive oil.
Hand-Cleaning Paste. Cleaning pastes are composed of soap and grit, either with or without some free alkalI. Any soap may be used, but a white soap is preferred. Castile soap does not make as firm a paste as soap made from animal fats, and the latter also lather better. For grit, anything may be used, from powdered pumice to fine sand.
A good paste may be made by dissolving soap in the least possible quantity of hot water, and as it cools and sets stirring in the grit. A good formula is:
White soap 2 1/2 pounds
Fine sand 1 pound
Water 5 1/2 pints
Lotion for the Hands.
Boric acid 1 drachm
Glycerine 6 drachms
Dissolve by heat and mix with
Lanolin 6 drachms
Vaseline 1 ounce
Add any perfume desired. The borated glycerine should be cooled before mixing it with the lanolin.
Cosmetic Jelly.
Tragacanth (white ribbon) 60 grains
Rose water 14 ounces
Macerate for two days and strain forcibly through coarse muslin or cheese
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cloth. Add glycerine and alcohol, of each 1 ounce. Perfume to suit. Use immediately after bathing, rubbing in well until dry.
Perspiring Hands.
I. Take rectified eau de cologne, 50 parts (by weight); belladonna dye, 8 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; rub gently twice or three times a day with half a tablespoonful of this mixture. One may also employ chalk, carbonate of magnesia, rice starch, hot and cold baths of the hands (as hot and as cold as can be borne), during 6 minutes, followed by a solution of 4 parts of tannin in 32 of glycerine.
II. Rub the hands several times per day with the following mixture:
By weight
Rose water 125 parts
Borax 10 parts
Glycerine 8 parts
Hand Bleach. Lanolin, 30 parts; glycerine, 20 parts; borax, 10 parts;
eucalyptol, 2 parts ; essential oil of almonds, 1 part. After rubbing the hands with this mixture, cover them with gloves during the night.
For the removal of developing stains, see Photography.
MASSAGE CREAMS:
Massage Application.
White potash soap, shaved 20 parts
Glycerine 30 parts
Water 30 parts
Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 parts
Dissolve the soap by heating it with the glycerine and water, mixed. Add the alcohol, and for every 30 ounces of the solution add 5 or 6 drops of the mistura oleoso balsamica, German Pharmacopoeia. Filter while hot.
Medicated Massage Balls. They are the balls of paraffine wax molded with a smooth or rough surface with menthol, camphor, oil of wintergreen, oil of peppermint, etc., added before shaping. Specially useful in headaches, neuralgias, and rheumatic affections, and many other afflictions of the skin and bones. The method of using them is to roll the ball over the affected part by the aid of the palm of the hand with pressure. Continue until relief is obtained or a sensation of warmth. The only external method for the treatment of all kinds of headaches is the menthol medicated massage ball. This may be made with smooth or corrugated surfaces. Keep wrapped in foil in cool places.
Casein Massage Cream. The basis of the modern massage cream is casein.
Casein is now produced very cheaply in the powdered form, and by treatment with glycerine and perfumes it is possible to turn out a satisfactory cream. The following formula is suggested:
Skimmed milk 1 gallon
Water of ammonia 1 ounce
Acetic acid 1 ounce
Oil of rose geranium 1 drachm
Oil of bitter almond 1 drachm
Oil of anise 2 drachms
Cold cream (see below), enough.
Carmine enough to color.
Add the water of ammonia to the milk and let it stand 24 hours. Then add the acetic acid and let it stand another 24 hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the oils. Work this thoroughly in a Wedgwood mortar, adding enough carmine to color it a delicate pink. To the product thus obtained add an equal amount of cold cream made by the formula herewith given:
White wax 4 ounces
Spermaceti 4 ounces
White petrolatum 12 ounces
Rose water 14 ounces
Borax 80 grains
Melt the wax, spermaceti, and petrolatum together over a water bath; dissolve the borax in the rose water and add to the melted mass at one time. Agitate violently. Presumably the borax solution should be of the same temperature as the melted mass.
Massage Skin Foods.
This preparation is used in massage for removing wrinkles:
I.
White wax 1/2 ounce
Spermaceti 1/2 ounce
Cocoanut oil 1 ounce
Lanolin 1 ounce
Oil of sweet almonds 2 ounces
Melt in a porcelain dish, remove from the fire, and add
Orange-flower water 1 ounce
Tincture of benzoin 3 drops
Beat briskly until creamy.
II.
Snow-white cold cream 4 ounces
Lanolin 4 ounces
Oil of theobroma 4 ounces
White petrolatum oil 4 ounces
Distilled water 4 ounces
In hot weather add
Spermaceti 1 1/2 drachms
White wax 2 1/2 drachms
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COSMETICS
In winter the two latter are left out and the proportion of cocoa butter is modified. Prepared and perfumed in proportion same as cold cream.
III.
White petrolatum 7 av. ounces
Paraffine wax 1/2 ounce
Lanolin 2 av. ounces
Water 3 fluidounces
Oil of rose 3 drops
Vanillin 2 grains
Alcohol 1 fluidrachm
Melt the paraffine, add the lanolin and petrolatum, and when these have melted pour the mixture into a warm mortar, and, with constant stirring, incorporate the water. When nearly cold add the oil and vanillin, dissolved in the alcohol. Preparations of this kind should be rubbed into the skin vigorously, as friction assists the absorbed fat in developing the muscles, and also imparts softness and fullness to the skin.
SKIN BLEACHES, BALMS. LOTIONS. ETC.:
See also Cleaning Methods and Photography for removal of stains caused
by photographic developers.
Astringent Wash for Flabby Skin.
This is used to correct coarse pores, and to remedy an oily or flabby skin. Apply with sponge night and morning:
Cucumber juice 1 1/2 ounces
Tincture of benzoin 1/2 ounce
Cologne 1 ounce
Elder-flower water 5 ounces
Put the tincture of benzoin in an 8-ounce bottle, add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and shake slightly. There will be some precipitation of benzoin in this mixture, but it will settle out, or it may be strained out through cheese cloth.
Bleaching Skin Salves. A skin-bleaching action, due to the presence of hydrogen peroxide, is possessed by the following mixtures:
I.
Lanolin 30 parts
Bitter almond oil 10 parts
Mix and stir with this salve base a solution of
Borax 1 part
Glycerine 15 parts
Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts
For impure skin the following composition is recommended:
II.
White mercurial ointment 5 grams
Zinc ointment 5 grams
Lanolin 30 grams
Bitter almond oil 10 grams
And gradually stir into this a solution of
Borax 2 grams
Glycerine 30 grams
Rose water 10 grams
Concentrated nitric acid 5 drops
III.
Lanolin 30 grams
Oil sweet almond 10 grams
Borax 1 gram
Glycerine 15 grams
Solution hydrogen peroxide 15 grams
Mix the lanolin and oil, then incorporate the borax previously dissolved in the mixture of glycerine and peroxide solution.
IV.
Ointment ammoniac mercury 5 grams
Ointment zinc oxide 5 grams
Lanolin 30 grams
Oil sweet almond 10 grams
Borax 2 grams
Glycerine 30 grams
Rose water 10 grams
Nitric acid, C.P. 5 drops
Prepare in a similar manner as the foregoing. Rose oil in either ointment makes a good perfume. Both ointments may, of course, be employed as a general skin bleach, which, in fact, is their real office - cosmetic creams.
Emollient Skin Balm.
Quince seed 1/2 ounce
Water 7 ounces
Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces
Alcohol 4 1/2 ounces
Salicylic acid 6 grains
Carbolic acid 10 grains
Oil of bay 10 drops
Oil of cloves 5 drops
Oil of orange peel 10 drops
Oil of wintergreen 8 drops
Oil of rose 2 drops
Digest the quince seed in the water for 24 hours, and then press through a cloth; dissolve the salicylic acid in the alcohol; add the carbolic acid to the glycerine; put all together, shake well, and
bottle.
Skin Lotion.
Zinc sulphocarbolate 30 grains
Alcohol (90 per cent) 4 fluidrachms
Glycerine 2 fluidrachms
Tincture of cochineal 1 fluidrachm
Orange-flower water 1 1/2 fluidounces
Rose water (triple) to make 6 fluidounces
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COSMETICS
Skin Discoloration. Discoloration of the neck may be removed by the use of acids, the simplest of which is that in buttermilk, but if the action of this is too slow try 4 ounces of lactic acid, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of rose water. These will mix without heating. Apply several times daily with a soft linen rag; pour a small quantity into a saucer and dip the cloth into this. If the skin becomes sore use less of the remedy and allay the redness and smarting with a good cold cream. It is always an acid that removes freckles and discolorations, by burning them off. It is well to be slow in its use until you find how severe its action is. It is not wise to try for home making any of the prescriptions which include corrosive sublimate or any other deadly poison. Peroxide of hydrogen diluted with 5 times as much water, also will bleach discolorations. Do not try any of these bleaches on a skin freshly sunburned. For that, wash in hot water, or add to the hot water application enough witch-hazel to scent the water, and after that has dried into the skin it will be soon enough to try other applications.
Detergent for Skin Stains. Moritz Weiss has introduced a detergent paste which will remove stains from the skin without attacking it, is non-poisonous, and can be used without hot water. Moisten the hands with a little cold water, apply a small quantity of the paste to the stained skin, rub the hands together for a few minutes, and rinse with cold water. The preparation is a mixture of soft soap and hard tallow, melted together over the fire and incorporated with a little emery powder, flint, glass, sand, quartz, pumice stone, etc., with a little essential oil to mask the smell of the soap. The mixture sets to a mass like putty, but does not dry hard. The approximate proportions of the ingredients are: Soft soap, 30 per cent; tallow, 15 per cent; emery powder, 55 per cent, and a few drops of essential oil.
If an extra detergent quality is desired, 4 ounces of sodium carbonate may be added, and the quantity of soap may be reduced. Paste thus made will attack grease, etc., more readily, but it is harder on the skin.
Removing Inground Dirt.
Egg albumen 8 parts
Boric acid 1 part
Glycerine 32 parts
Perfume to suit.
Distilled water to make. 50 parts
Dissolve the boric acid in a sufficient quantity of water; mix the albumen and glycerine and pass through a silk strainer. Finally, mix the two fluids and add the residue of water.
Every time the hands are washed, dry on a towel, and then moisten them lightly but thoroughly with the liquid, and dry on a soft towel without rubbing. At night, on retiring, apply the mixture and wipe slightly or just enough to take up superfluous liquid; or, better still, sleep in a pair of cotton gloves.
TOILET CREAMS:
Almond Cold Creams. A liquid almond cream may be made by the appended formula. It has been known as milk of almond:
I.
Sweet almonds 5 ounces
White castile soap 2 drachms
White wax 2 drachms
Spermaceti 2 drachms
Oil of bitter almonds 10 minims
Oil of bergamot 20 minims
Alcohol 6 fluidounces
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Beat the almonds in a smooth mortar until as much divided as their nature will admit; then gradually add water in very small quantities, continuing the beating until a smooth paste is obtained; add to this, gradually, one pint of water, stirring well all the time. Strain the resulting emulsion without pressure through a cotton cloth previously well washed to remove all foreign matter. If new, the cloth will contain starch, etc., which must be removed. Add, through the strainer, enough water to bring the measure of the strained liquid to 1 pint.
While this operation is going on let the soap be shaved into thin ribbons, and melted, with enough water to cover it, over a very gentle fire or on a water bath. When fluid add the wax and spermaceti in large pieces, so as to allow them to melt slowly, and thereby better effect union with the soap. Stir occasionally. When all is melted place the soapy mixture in a mortar, run into it slowly the emulsion, blending the two all the while with the pestle. Care must be taken not to add the emulsion faster than it can be incorporated with the soap. Lastly add the alcohol in which the perfumes have been previously dissolved, in the same manner, using great care.
This preparation is troublesome to make and rather expensive, and it is perhaps no better for the purpose than glycerine. The mistake is often made of applying the latter too freely, its "stickiness" being unpleasant, and it is
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COSMETICS
best to dilute it largely with water. Such a lotion may be made by mixing
Glycerine 1 part
Rose water 9 parts
Plain water may, of course, be used as the diluent, but a slightly perfumed preparation is generally considered more desirable. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of handkerchief "extract" or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.
II.
White wax 1/4 ounce
Spermaceti 2 1/2 ounces
Oil of sweet almonds 2 1/2 ounces
Melt, remove from the fire, and add
Rose water 1 1/2 ounces
Beat until creamy: not until cold. When the cream begins to thicken add a few drops of oil of rose. Only the finest almond oil should be used. Be careful in weighing the wax and spermacetI. These precautions will insure a good product.
III.
White wax 4 ounces
Spermaceti 3 ounces
Sweet almond oil 6 fluidounces
Glycerine 4 fluidounces
Oil of rose geranium 1 fluidrachm
Tincture of benzoin 4 fluidrachms
Melt the wax and spermaceti, add the oil of sweet almonds, then beat in the glycerine, tincture of benzoin, and oil of rose geranium. When all are incorporated to a smooth, creamy mass, pour into molds.
IV.
Sweet almonds, blanched 5 ounces
Castile soap, white 120 grains
White wax 120 grains
Spermaceti 120 grains
Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops
Oil of bergamot 20 drops
Alcohol 6 fluidounces
Water, sufficient.
Make an emulsion of the almonds with water so as to obtain 16 fluidounces of product, straining through cotton which has previously been washed to remove starch. Dissolve the soap with the aid of heat in the necessary amount of water to form a liquid, add the wax and spermaceti, continue the heat until the latter is melted, transfer to a mortar, and incorporate the almond emulsion slowly with constant stirring until all has been added and a smooth cream has been formed. Finally, add the two volatile oils.
V. Melt, at moderate heat,
By weight.
White wax 100 parts
Spermaceti 1,000 parts
Then stir in
By weight.
Almond oil 500 parts
Rose water 260 parts
And scent with
By weight.
Bergamot oil 10 parts
Geranium oil 5 parts
Lemon oil 4 parts
VI.
By weight.
Castor oil 500 parts
White wax 100 parts
Almond oil 150 parts
Melt at moderate heat and scent with
By weight.
Geranium oil 6 parts
Lemon oil 5 parts
Bergamot oil 10 parts
VII.
By weight.
Almond oil 400 parts
Lanoline 200 parts
White wax 60 parts
Spermaceti 60 parts
Rose water 300 parts
VIII.
By weight.
White wax 6 parts
Tallow, freshly tried out 4 parts
Spermaceti 2 parts
Oil of sweet almonds 6 parts
Melt together and while still hot add, with constant stirring, 1 part of sodium carbonate dissolved in 79 parts of hot water. Stir until cold. Perfume to the taste.
IX.
Ointment of rose water 1 ounce
Oil of sweet almonds 1 fluidounce
Glycerine 1 fluidounce
Boric acid 100 grains
Solution of soda 2 1/4 fluidounces
Mucilage of quince seed 4 fluidounces
Water enough to make 40 fluidounces
Oil of rose,
oil of bitter almonds, of each sufficient to perfume.
Heat the ointment, oil, and solution of soda together, stirring constantly until an emulsion or saponaceous mixture is
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COSMETICS
formed. Then warm together the glycerine, acid, and mucilage and about 30 fluidounces of water; mix with the emulsion, stir until cold, and add the remainder of the water. Lastly, add the volatile oils.
The rose-water ointment used should be the "cold cream" of the United States Pharmacopoeia.
X.
Spermaceti 2 ounces
White wax 2 ounces
Sweet almond oil 14 fluidounces
Water, distilled 7 fluidounces
Borax, powder 60 grains
Coumarin 1/2 grain
Oil of bergamot 24 drops
Oil of rose 6 drops
Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops
Tincture of ambergris 5 drops
Melt the spermaceti and wax, add the sweet almond oil, incorporate the water in which the borax has previously been dissolved, and finally add the oils of bergamot, rose, and bitter almond.
XI.
Honey 2 av. ounces
Castile soap, white powder 1 av. ounce
Oil sweet almonds 26 fluidounces
Oil bitter almonds 1 fluidrachm
Oil bergamot 1/2 fluidrachm
Oil cloves 15 drops
Peru balsam 1 fluidrachm
Liquor potassa.
Solution carmine, of each sufficient.
Mix the honey with the soap in a mortar, and add enough liquor potassa
(about 1 fluidrachm) to produce a nice cream. Mix the volatile oils and balsam with the sweet almond oil, mix this with the cream, and continue the trituration until thoroughly mixed. Finally add, if desired, enough carmine solution to impart a rose tint.
XII.
White wax 800 parts
Spermaceti 800 parts
Sweet almond oil 5,600 parts
Distilled water 2,800 parts
Borax 50 parts
Bergamot oil 20 parts
Attar of rose 5 parts
Coumarin 0.1 part
Add for each pound of the cream 5 drops of etheric oil of bitter almonds, and 3 drops tincture of ambra. Proceed as in making cold cream.
The following also makes a fine cream:
XIII.
Spermaceti 3 parts
White wax 2 parts
Oil of almonds, fresh 12 parts
Rose water, double 1 part
Glycerine, pure 1 part
Melt on a water bath the spermaceti and wax, add the oil (which should be fresh), and pour the whole into a slightly warmed mortar, under constant and lively stirring, to prevent granulation. Continue the trituration until the mass has a white, creamy appearance, and is about the consistence of butter at ordinary temperature. Add, little by little, under constant stirring, the orange-flower water and glycerine mixed, and finally the perfume as before. Continue the stirring for 15 or 20 minutes, then immediately put into containers.
Chappine Cream.
Quince seed 2 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 ounces
Water 1 1/2 ounces
Lead acetate 10 grains
Flavoring, sufficient.
Macerate the quince seed in water, strain, add the glycerine and lead acetate, previously dissolved in sufficient water; flavor with jockey club or orange essence.
Cucumber Creams.
I.
White wax 3 ounces
Spermaceti 3 ounces
Benzoinated lard 8 ounces
Cucumbers 3 ounces
Melt together the wax, spermaceti, and lard, and infuse in the liquid the cucumbers previously grated. Allow to cool, stirring well; let stand a day, remelt, strain and again stir the "cream" until cold.
II.
Benzoinated lard 5 ounces
Suet 3 ounces
Cucumber juice 10 ounces
Proceed as in making cold cream.
Glycerine Creams.
I.
Oil of sweet almonds 100 parts
White wax 13 parts
Glycerine, pure 25 parts
Add a sufficient quantity of any suitable perfume.
Melt, on the water bath, the oil, wax, and glycerine together, remove and as the mass cools down add the perfume in sufficient quantity to make a creamy mass.
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COSMETICS
II.
Quince seed 1 ounce
Boric acid 16 grains
Starch 1 ounce
Glycerine 16 ounces
Carbolic acid 30 minims
Alcohol 12 ounces
Oil of lavender 30 minims
Oil of rose 10 drops
Extract of white rose 1 ounce
Water enough to make 64 ounces
Dissolve the boric acid in a quart of water and in this solution macerate the quince seed for 3 hours; then strain. Heat together the starch and the glycerine until the starch granules are broken, and mix with this the carbolic acid. Dissolve the oils and the extract of rose in the alcohol, and add to the quince seed mucilage; then mix all together, strain, and add water enough to make the product weigh 64 ounces.
III.
Glycerine 1 ounce
Borax 2 drachms
Boracic acid 1 drachm
Oil rose geranium 30 drops
Oil bitter almond 15 drops
Milk 1 gallon
Heat the milk until it curdles and allow it to stand 12 hours. Strain it through cheese cloth and allow it to stand again for 12 hours. Mix in the salts and glycerine and triturate in a mortar, finally adding the odors and coloring if wanted. The curdled milk must be entirely free from water to avoid separation. If the milk will not curdle fast enough the addition of 1 ounce of water ammonia to a gallon will hasten it. Take a gallon of milk, add 1 ounce ammonia water, heat (not boil), allow to stand 24 hours, and no trouble will be found in forming a good base for the cream.
IV. This is offered as a substitute for cucumber cream for toilet uses. Melt 15 parts, by weight, of gelatin in hot water containing 15 parts, by weight, of boracic acid as well as 150 parts, by weight, of glycerine; the total amount of water used should not exceed 300 parts, by weight. It may be perfumed or not.
Lanolin Creams.
I.
Anhydrous lanolin 650 parts
Peach-kernel oil 200 parts
Water 150 parts
Perfume with about 15 drops of ionone or 20 drops of synthetic ylang-
ylang.
II.
Lanolin 40 parts
Olive oil 15 parts
Paraffine ointment 10 parts
Aqua naphse 10 parts
Distilled water 15 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Boric acid 4 parts
Borax 4 parts
Geranium oil, sufficient.
Extract, triple, of ylang-ylang, quantity sufficient.
III.
Anhydrous lanolin 650 drachms
Almond oil 200 drachms
Water 150 drachms
Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops
Preparations which have been introduced years ago for the care of the skin and complexion are the glycerine gelees, which have the advantage over lanolin that they go further, but present the drawback of not being so quickly absorbed by the skin. These products are filled either into glasses or into tubes. The latter way is preferable and is more and more adopted, owing to the convenience of handling.
A good recipe for such a gelée is the following:
Moisten white tragacanth powder, 50 parts, with glycerine, 200 parts, and spirit of wine, 100 parts, and shake with a suitable amount of perfume; then quickly mix and shake with warm distilled water, 650 parts.
A transparent slime will form immediately which can be drawn off at once.
Mucilage Creams.
I.
Starch 30 parts
Carrageen mucilage 480 parts
Boric acid 15 parts
Glycerine 240 parts
Cologne water 240 parts
Boil the starch in the carrageen mucilage, add the boric acid and the glycerine. Let cool, and add the cologne water.
II.
Linseed mucilage 240 parts
Boric acid 2 parts
Salicylic acid 1.3 parts
Glycerine 60 parts
Cologne water 120 parts
Rose water 120 parts
Instead of the cologne water any extracts may be used. Lilac and ylang-
ylang are recommended.
Witch-Hazel Creams.
I.
Quince seed 90 grains
Boric acid 8 grains
Glycerine 4 fluidounces
Alcohol 6 fiuidounces
Carbolic acid 6 drachms
Cologne water 4 fluidounces
Oil lavender flowers 40 drops
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COSMETICS
Glycerite starch 4 av. ounces
Distilled witch-hazel extract enough to make 32 fluidounces
Dissolve the boric acid in 16 ounces of the witch-hazel extract, macerate the quince seed in the solution for 3 hours, strain, add the glycerine, carbolic acid, and glycerite, and mix well. Mix the alcohol, cologne water, lavender oil, and mucilages, incorporate with the previous mixture, and add enough witch-hazel extract to bring to the measure of 32 fluidounces.
II.
Quince seed 4 ounces
Hot water 16 ounces
Glycerine 32 ounces
Witch-hazel water 128 ounces
Boric acid 6 ounces
Rose extract 2 ounces
Violet extract 1 ounce
Macerate the quince seed in the hot water; add the glycerine and witch hazel, in which the boric acid has been previously dissolved; let the mixture stand for 2 days, stirring occasionally; strain and add the perfume.
Skin Cream for Collapsible Tubes.
I.
White vaseline 6 ounces
White wax 1 ounce
Spermaceti 5 drachms
Subchloride bismuth 6 drachms
Attar of rose 6 minims
Oil of bitter almonds 1 minim
Rectified spirit 1/2 ounce
Melt the vaseline, wax, and spermaceti together, and while cooling incorporate the subchloride of bismuth (in warm mortar). Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the fatty mixture, stirring all until uniform and cold. In cold weather the quantities of wax and spermaceti may be reduced.
II.
Lanolin 1 ounce
Almond oil 1 ounce
Oleate of zinc (powder) 3 drachms
Extract of white rose 1 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 2 drachms
Rose water 2 drachms
Face Cream Without Grease.
Quince seed 10 parts
Boiling water 1,000 parts
Borax 5 parts
Boric acid 5 parts
Glycerine 100 parts
Alcohol, 94 per cent 125 parts
Attar of rose, quantity sufficient to perfume.
Macerate the quince seed in half of the boiling water, with frequent agitations, for 2 hours and 30 minutes, then strain off. In the residue of the boiling water dissolve the borax and boric acid, add the glycerine and the perfume, the latter dissolved in the alcohol. Now add, little by little, the colate of quince seed, under constant agitation, which should be kept up for 5 minutes after the last portion of the colate is added.
TOILET MILKS:
Cucumber Milk.
Simple cerate 2 pounds
Powdered borax 11 1/2 ounces
Powdered castile soap 10 ounces
Glycerine 26 ounces
Alcohol 24 ounces
Cucumber juice 32 ounces
Water to 5 gallons
lonone 1 drachm
Jasmine 1/2 drachm
Neroli 1/2 drachm
Rhodinol 15 minims
To the melted cerate in a hot water bath add the soap and stir well, keeping up the heat until perfectly mixed. Add 8 ounces of borax to 1 gallon of boiling water, and pour gradually into the hot melted soap and cerate; add the remainder of the borax and hot water, then the heated juice and glycerine, and lastly the alcohol. Shake well while cooling, set aside for 48 hours, and siphon off any water that may separate. Snake well, and repeat after standing again if necessary; then perfume.
Cucumber Juice. It is well to make a large quantity, as it keeps indefinitely. Washed unpeeled cucumbers are grated and pressed: the juice is heated, skimmed and boiled for 5 minutes, then cooled and filtered. Add 1 part of alcohol to 2 parts of juice, let stand for 12 hours or more, and filter until clear.
Glycerine Milk.
Glycerine 1,150 parts
Starch, powdered 160 parts
Distilled water 400 parts
Tincture of benzoin 20 parts
Rub up 80 parts of the starch with the glycerine, then put the mixture on the steam bath and heat, under continuous stirring, until it forms a jellylike mass. Remove from the bath and stir in the remainder of the starch. Finally, add the water and tincture and stir till homogeneous.
Lanolin Toilet Milk.
White castile soap, powdered 22 grains
Lanolin 1 ounce
Tincture benzoin 12 drachms
Water, enough.
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COSMETICS
Dissolve the soap in 2 fluidounces of warm water, also mix the lanolin with 2 fluidounces of warm water; then incorporate the two with each other, finally adding the tincture. The latter may be replaced by 90 grains of powdered borax.
Jasmine Milk. To 25 parts of water add gradually, with constant stirring, 1 part of zinc white, 2 quarts of grain spirit, and 0.15 to 0.25 part of glycerine; finally stir in 0.07 to 0.10 part of jasmine essence. Filter the mixture and fill into glass bottles. For use as a cosmetic, rub on the raspberry paste on retiring at night, and in the morning use the jasmine milk to remove the paste from the skin. The two work together in their effect.
SUNBURN AND FRECKLE REMEDIES.
I. Apply over the affected skin a solution of corrosive sublimate, 1 in 500, or, if the patient can stand it, 1 in 300, morning and evening, and for the night apply emplastrum hydrargyri compositum to the spots. In the morning remove the plaster and all remnants of it by rubbing fresh butter or cold cream over the spots.
For redness of the skin apply each other day zinc oxide ointment or ointment of bismuth subnitrate.
II. Besnier recommends removal of the mercurial ointment with green soap, and the use, at night, of an ointment composed of vaseline and Vigo's plaster (emplastrum hydrargyri compositum), in equal parts. In the morning wash off with soap and warm water, and apply the following:
Vaseline, white 20 parts
Bismuth carbonate 5 parts
Kaolin 5 parts
Mix, and make an ointment.
III. Leloir has found the following of service. Clean the affected part with green soap or with alcohol, and then apply several coats of the following:
Acid chrysophanic 15 parts
Chloroform 100 parts
Mix. Apply with a camel's-hair pencil.
When the application dries thoroughly, go over it with a layer of traumaticine. This application will loosen itself in several uays, when the process should be repeated.
IV. When the skin is only slightly discolored use a pomade of salicylic acid, or apply the following:
Acid chrysophanic, from 1 to 4 parts
Acid salicylic 1 to 2 parts
Collodion 40 parts
V. When there is need for a more complicated treatment, the following is used:
(a)
Corrosive sublimate 1 part
Orange-flower water 7,500 parts
Acid, hydrochloric, dilute 500 parts
(b)
Bitter almonds 4,500 parts
Glycerine 2,500 parts
Orange-flower water 25,000 parts
Rub up to an emulsion in a porcelain capsule. Filter and add, drop by drop, and under constant stirring, 5 grams of tincture of benzoin. Finally mix the two solutions, adding the second to the first.
This preparation is applied with a sponge, on retiring, to the affected places, and allowed to dry on.
VI. According to Brocq the following should be penciled over the affected spots:
Fresh pure milk 50 parts
Glycerine 30 parts
Acid, hydrochloric, concentrated 5 parts
Ammonium chlorate 3 parts
VII. Other external remedies that may be used are lactic acid diluted with 3 volumes of water, applied with a glass rod: dilute nitric acid, and, finally, peroxide of hydrogen, which last is a very powerful agent. Should it cause too much inflammation, the latter may be assuaged by using an ointment of zinc oxide or bismuth subnitrate or one may use the following:
Kaolin 4 parts
Vaseline 10 parts
Glycerine 4 parts
Magnesium carbonate 2 parts
Zinc oxide 2 parts
Freckle Remedies.
I.
Poppy oil 1 part
Lead acetate 2 parts
Tincture benzoin 1 part
Tincture quillaia 5 parts
Spirit nitrous ether 1 part
Rose water 95 parts
Saponify the oil with the lead acetate; add the rose water, and follow with the tinctures.
II.
Chloral hydrate 2 drachms
Carbolic acid 1 drachm
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COSMETICS
Tincture iodine 60 drops
Glycerine 1 ounce
Mix and dissolve. Apply with a camel's-hair pencil at night.
III.
Distilled vinegar 660 parts
Lemons, cut in small pieces 135 parts
Alcohol, 85 per cent 88 parts
Lavender oil 23 parts
Water 88 parts
Citron oil 6 parts
This mixture is allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days in the sun and filtered. Coat, by means of a sponge before retiring, the places of the skin where the freckles are and allow to dry.
Freckles and Liver Spots, Modern dermatological methods of treating freckles and liver spots are based partly on remedies that cause desquamation and those that depigmentate (or destroy or neutralize pigmentation). Both methods may be distinguished in respect to their effects and mode of using into the following: The active ingredients of
the desquamative pastes are reductives which promote the formation of epithelium and hence expedite desquamation.
There are many such methods, and especially to be mentioned is that of
Unna, who uses resorcin for the purpose. Lassar makes use of a paste of naphthol and sulphur.
Sunburn Remedies.
I.
Zinc sulphocarbolate 1 part
Glycerine 20 parts
Rose water 70 parts
Alcohol, 90 per cent 8 parts
Cologne water 1 part
Spirit of camphor 1 part
II.
Borax 4 parts
Potassium chlorate 2 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Alcohol 4 parts
Rose water to make 90 parts
III.
Citric acid 2 drachms
Ferrous sulphate (cryst.) 18 grains
Camphor 2 grains
Elder-flower water 3 fluidounces
IV.
Potassium carbonate 3 parts
Sodium chloride 2 parts
Orange-flower water 15 parts
Rose water 65 parts
V.
Boroglycerine, 50 percent 1 part
Ointment of rose water 9 parts
VI.
Sodium bicarbonate 1 part
Ointment of rose water 7 parts
VII.
Bicarbonate of soda 2 drachms
Powdered borax 1 drachm
Compound tincture of lavender 1 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 ounce
Rose water 4 ounces
Dissolve the soda and borax in the glycerine and rose water, and add the tincture. Apply with a small piece of sponge 2 or 3 times a day. Then gently dry by dabbing with a soft towel.
VIII.
Quince seeds 2 drachms
Distilled water 10 ounces
Glycerine 2 ounces
Alcohol, 94 per cent 1 ounce
Rose water 2 ounces
Boil the seeds in the water for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid, and when cold add to it the glycerine, alcohol, and rose water.
IX.
White soft soap 2 1/2 drachms
Glycerine 1 1/2 drachms
Almond oil 11 drachms
Well mix the glycerine and soap in a mortar, and very gradually add the oil, stirring constantly until perfectly mixed.
X.
Subnitrate of bismuth 1 1/2 drachms
Powdered French chalk 30 grains
Glycerine 2 drachms
Rose water 1 1/2 ounces
Mix the powders, and rub down carefully with the glycerine; then add the rose water. Shake the bottle before use.
XI.
Glycerine cream 2 drachms
Jordan almonds 4 drachms
Rose water 5 ounces
Essential oil of almonds 3 drops
Blanch the almonds, and then dry and beat them up into a perfectly smooth paste; then mix in the glycerine cream and essential oil. Gradually add the rose water, stirring well after each addition; then strain through muslin.
Tan and Freckle Lotion.
Solution A:
Potassium iodide, iodine, glycerine, and infusion rose.
Dissolve the potassium iodide in a
[242]
COSMETICS
small quantity of the infusion and a drachm of the glycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in a glass of water and rub it down, gradually adding more liquid, until complete solution has been obtained; then stir in the remainder of the ingredients, and bottle the mixture.
Solution B:
Sodium thiosulphate and rose water.
With a small camel's-hair pencil or piece of fine sponge apply a little of solution A to the tanned or freckled surface, until a slight or tolerably uniform brownish yellow skin has been produced. At the expiration of 15 or 20 minutes moisten a piece of cambric, lint, or soft rag with B and lay it upon the affected part, removing, squeezing away the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again applying until the iodine stain has disappeared. Repeat the process thrice daily, but diminish the frequency of application if tenderness be produced.
A Cure for Tan. Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 10 grains; distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together until a complete solution is obtained. Add 1/2 ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small sponge as often as agreeable. This is not strong enough to blister and skin the face in average cases. It may be increased or reduced in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of mercury. Do not forget that this last ingredient is a powerful poison and should be kept out of the reach of children and ignorant persons.
Improved Carron Oil. Superior to the old and more suitable. A desirable preparation for burns, tan, freckle, sunburn, scalds, abrasions, or lung affections. Does not oxidize so quickly or dry up so rapidly and less liable to rancidity.
Linseed oil 2 ounces
Limewater 2 ounces
Paraffine, liquid 1 ounce
Mix the linseed oil and water, and add the paraffine. Shake well before using.
LIVER SPOTS.
I.
Corrosive sub1imate 1 part
White sugar 190 parts
White of egg 34 parts
Lemon juice 275 parts
Water to make 2,500 parts
Mix the sublimate, sugar, and albumen intimately, then add the lemon juice and water. Dissolve, shake well, and after standing an hour, filter. Apply in the morning after the usual ablutions, and let dry on the face.
II. Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch-hazel, 2 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces.
Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children.
TOILET POWDERS:
Almond Powders for the Toilet.
I.
Almond meal 6,000 parts
Bran meal 3,000 parts
Soap powder 600 parts
Bergarnot oil 50 parts
Lemon oil 15 parts
Clove oil 15 parts
Neroli oil 6 parts
II.
Almond meal 7,000 parts
Bran meal 2,000 parts
Violet root 900 parts
Borax 350 parts
Bitter almond oil 18 parts
Palmarosa oil 36 parts
Bergamot oil 10 parts
III.
Almond meal 3,000 parts
Bran meal 3,000 parts
Wheat flour 3,000 parts
Sand 100 parts
Lemon oil 40 parts
Bitter almond oil 10 parts
Bath Powder.
Borax 4 ounces
Salicylic acid 1 drachm
Extract of cassia 1 drachm
Extract of jasmine 1 drachm
Oil of lavender 20 minims
Rub the oil and extracts with the borax and salicylic acid until the alcohol has evaporated. Use a heaping teaspoonful to the body bath.
Brunette or Rachelle.
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Perfume the same.
Powdered yellow ocher (av. ) 3 ounces 120 grains
Carmine No. 40 60 grains
Rub down the carmine and ocher with alcohol in a mortar, and spread on glass to dry; then mix and sift.
Violet Poudre de Riz.
I.
Cornstarch 7 pounds
Rice flour 1 pound
Powdered talc 1 pound
Powdered orris root 1 pound
Extract of cassia 3 ounces
Extract of jasmine 1 ounce
[243]
COSMETICS
II. Cheaper.
Potato starch 8 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Powdered orris 1 pound
Extract of cassia 3 ounces
Barber's Powder.
Cornstarch 5 pounds
Precipitated chalk 3 pounds
Powdered talc 2 pounds
Oil of neroli 1 drachm
Oil of cedrat 1 drachm
Oil of orange 2 drachms
Extract of jasmine 1 ounce
Rose Poudre de Riz.
I.
Cornstarch 9 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Oil of rose 1 1/4 drachms
Extract of jasmine 6 drachms
II.
Potato starch 9 pounds
Powdered talc 1 pound
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine 1/2 ounce
Ideal Cosmetic Powder. The following combines the best qualities that a
powder for the skin should have:
Zinc, white 5 0 parts
Calcium carbonate, precipitated 300 parts
Steatite, best white 50 parts
Starch, wheat, or rice 100 parts
Extract white rose, triple 3 parts
Extract jasmine, triple 3 parts
Extract orange flower, triple 3 parts
Extract of cassia, triple 3 parts
Tincture of myrrh 1 part
Powder the solids and mix thoroughly by repeated siftings.
Flesh Face Powder.
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Carmine No. 40 250 grains
Extract of jasmine 100 minims
Oil of neroli 20 minims
Vanillin 5 grains
Artificial musk 30 grains
White heliotropin 30 grains
Coumarin 1 grain
Rub the carmine with a portion of the base and alcohol in a mortar, mixing the perfume the same way in another large mortar, and adding the orris. Mix and sift all until specks of carmine disappear on rubbing.
White Face Powder.
Base 9 pounds
Powdered Florentine orris 1 pound
Perfume the same. Mix and sift.
Talcum Powders. Talc, when used as a toilet powder should be in a state of very fine division. Antiseptics are sometimes added in small proportion, but these are presumably of little or no value in the quantity allowable, and may prove irritating. For general use, at all events, the talcum alone is the best and the safest. As a perfume, rose oil may be employed, but on account of its cost, rose geranium oil is probably more frequently used. A satisfactory proportion is 1/2 drachm of the oil to a pound of the powder. In order that the perfume may be thoroughly disseminated throughout the powder, the oil should be triturated first with a small portion of it; this should then be further triturated with a larger portion, and, if the quantity operated on be large, the final mixing may be effected by sifting. Many odors besides that of rose would be suitable for a toilet powder. Ylang-ylang would doubtless prove very attractive, but expensive.
The following formulas for other varieties of the powder may prove useful:
Violet Talc.
I.
Powdered talc 14 ounces
Powdered orris root 2 ounces
Extract of cassia 1/2 ounce
Extract of jasmine 1/4 ounce
Rose Talc.
II.
Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Extract of jasmine 4 ounces
Tea-Rose Talc.
III.
Powdered talc 5 pounds
Oil of rose 50 drops
Oil of wintergreen 4 drops
Extract of jasmine 2 ounces
Borated Apple Blossom.
IV.
Powdered talc 22 pounds
Magnesium carbonate 2 3/4 pounds
Powdered boric acid 1 pound
Mix.
Carnation pink blossom (Schimmers) 2 ounces
Extract of trefle 2 drachms
To 12 drachms of this mixture add:
Neroli 1 drachm
Vanillin 1/2 drachm
Alcohol to 3 ounces
Sufficient for 25 pounds.
[244]
COSMETICS
V.
Talcum 8 ounces
Starch 8 ounces
Oil of neroli 10 drops
Oil of ylang-ylang 5 drops
VI.
Talcum 12 ounces
Starch 4 ounces
Orris root 2 ounces
Oil of bergamot 12 drops
VII.
Talcum 14 ounces
Starch 2 ounces
Lanolin 1/2 ounce
Oil of rose 10 drops
Oil of neroli 5 drops
TOILET VINEGARS:
Pumillo Toilet Vinegar.
Alcohol, 80 per cent 1,600 parts
Vinegar, 10 per cent 840 parts
Oil of pinu spumillo 44 parts
Oil of lavender 4 parts
Oil of lemon 2 parts
Oil of bergamot 2 parts
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the vinegar, let stand for a week and filter.
Vinaigre Rouge.
Acetic acid 24 parts
Alum 3 parts
Peru balsam 1 part
Carmine, No. 40 12 parts
Ammonia water 6 parts
Rose water, distilled 575 parts
Alcohol 1,250 parts
Dissolve the balsam of Peru in the alcohol, and the alum in the rose water. Mix the two solutions, add the acetic acid, and let stand overnight. Dissolve the carmine in the ammonia water and add to mixture. Shake thoroughly, let stand for a few minutes, then decant.
TOILET WATERS:
"Beauty Water."
Fresh egg albumen 500 parts
Alcohol 125 parts
Lemon oil 2 parts
Lavender oil 2 parts
Oil of thyme 2 parts
Mix the ingredients well together. When first mixed the liquid becomes flocculent, but after standing for 2 or 3 days clears up sometimes becomes perfectly clear, and may be decanted. It forms a light, amber-colored liquid that remains clear for months.
At night, before retiring, pour about a teaspoonful of the water in the palm of the hand, and rub it over the face and neck, letting it dry on. In the morning, about an hour before the bath, repeat the operation, also letting the liquid dry on the skin. The regular use of this preparation for 4 weeks will give the skin an extraordinary fineness, clearness, and freshness.
Rottmanner's Beauty Water. Koiler says that this preparation consists of 1 part of camphor, 5 parts of milk of sulphur, and 50 parts of rose water.
Birch Waters. Birch water, which has many cosmetic applications, especially as a hair wash, or an ingredient in hair washes, may be prepared as follows:
I.
Alcohol, 96 per cent 3,500 parts
Water 700 parts
Potash soap 200 parts
Glycerine 150 parts
Oil of birch buds 50 parts
Essence of spring flowers 100 parts
Chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to color.
Mix the water with 700 parts of the alcohol, and in the mixture dissolve the soap. Add the essence of spring flowers and birch oil to the remainder of the alcohol, mix well, and to the mixture add,
little by little, and with constant agitation, the soap mixture. Finally, add the glycerine, mix thoroughly, and set aside for
8 days, filter and color the filtrate with chlorophyll, to which is added a little tincture of saffron. To use, add an equal volume of water to. produce a lather.
II.
Alcohol, 96 per cent 2,000 parts
Water 500 parts
Tincture of cantharides 25 parts
Salicylic acid 25 parts
Glycerine 100 parts
Oil of birch buds 40 parts
Bergamot oil 30 parts
Geranium oil 5 parts
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the acid and tincture of cantharides; mix the water and glycerine and add, and, finally, color as before.
III.
Alcohol 30,000 parts
Birch juice 3,000 parts
Glycerine 1,000 parts
Bergamot oil 90 parts
Vanillin 10 parts
Geranium oil 50 parts
Water 14,000 parts
IV.
Alcohol 40,000 parts
Oil of birch 150 parts
Bergamot oil 100 parts
Lemon oil 50 parts
[245]
COTTON
Palmarosa oil 100 parts
Glycerine 2,000 parts
Borax 150 parts
Water 20,000 parts
Violet Ammonia Water. Most preparations of this character consist of either coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, with or without the addition of ammonia water, or of a coarsely powdered mixture, which slowly evolves the odor of ammonia, the whole being perfumed by the addition of volatile oil, pomade essences, or handkerchief extract. The following are typical formulas:
I. Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate, contained in a suitable bottle, with a mixture of concentrated tincture of orris root, 2 1/2 ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 drachm; violet extract, 3 drachms.
II. Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb: Oil of orris, 5 minims; oil of lavender flowers, 10 minims; violet extract, 30 minims; stronger water of ammonia, 2 fluidounces.
III. The following is a formula for a liquid preparation: Extract violet, 8 fluidrachms; extract cassia, 8 fluidrachms; spirit of rose, 4 fluidrachms; tincture of orris, 4 fluidrachms ; cologne spirit, 1
pint; spirit of ammonia, 1 ounce. Spirit of ionone may be used instead of extract of violet.
Violet Witch-Hazel.
Spirit of ionone 1/2 drachm
Rose water 6 ounces
Distilled extract of witch-hazel enough to make 16 ounces
Cotton
BLEACHING OF COTTON:
I. Bleaching by Steaming. The singed and washed cotton goods are passed through hydrochloric acid of 2º Bé. Leave them in heaps during 1 hour, wash, pass through sodium hvpochlorite of 10º Bé. diluted with 10 times the volume of water. Let the pieces lie in heaps for 1 hour, wash, pass through caustic soda lye of 38º Bé. diluted with 8 times its volume of water, steam, put again through sodium chloride, wash, acidulate slightly with hydrochloric acid, wash and dry. Should the whiteness not be sufficient, repeat the operations.
II. Bleaching with Calcium Sulphite. The cotton goods are impregnated with 1 part, by weight, of water, 1 part of caustic lime, and 1/2 part of bisulphite of 40º Bé.; next steamed during 1-2 hours at a pressure of 1/2 atmosphere, washed, acidulated, washed and dried. The result is as white a fabric as by the old method with caustic lime, soda, and calcium chloride. The bisulphite may also be replaced by calcium hydrosulphite, and, instead of steaming, the fabric may be boiled for several hours with calcium sulphite.
III. Bleaching of Vegetable Fibers with Hydrogen Peroxide. Pass the pieces through a solution containing caustic soda, soap, hydrogen peroxide, and burnt magnesia. The pieces are piled in heaps on carriages; the latter are shoved into the well-known apparatus of Mather & Platt (kier), and the liquid is pumped on for 6 hours, at a pressure of 2/3 atmosphere. Next wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be done on an ordinary reeling vat. For 5 pieces are needed about 1,000 parts, by weight, of water; 10 parts, by weight, of solid caustic soda; 1 part of burnt magnesia; 30 parts, by weight, of hydrogen peroxide. After 3-4 hours' boiling, wash, acidulate, wash and dry. The bleaching may also be performed by passing through barium peroxide, then through sulphuric acid or hydrochloric acid, and next through soda lye. It is practicable also to commence with the latter and finally give a treatment with hydrogen peroxide.
The whiteness obtained by the above process is handsomer than that produced by the old method with hypochlorites, and the fabric is weakened to a less extent.
TESTS FOR COTTON.
I. Cotton, when freed from extraneous matter by boiling with potash, and afterwards with hydrochloric acid, yields pure cellulose or absorbent cotton, which, according to the U.S.P., is soluble in copper ammonium sulphate solution. The B.P. is more specific and states that cotton is soluble in a concentrated solution of copper ammonium sulphate. The standard test solution (B.P.) is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 160 parts of distilled water, and cautiously adding solution of ammonia to the liquid until the precipitate first formed is nearly dissolved. The product is then filtered and the filtrate made up to 200 parts with distilled
[246]
COTTON - COUGH MIXTURES
water. The concentrated solution is prepared by using a smaller quantity of distilled water.
II. Schweitzer's reagent for textile fibers and cellulose is made by dissolving 10 parts of copper sulphate in 100 parts of water and adding a solution of 5 parts of potassium hydrate in 50 parts of water; then wash the precipitate and dissolve in 20 per cent ammonia until saturated. This solution dissolves cotton, linen, and silk, but not wool. The reagent is said to be especially useful in microscopy, as it rapidly dissolves cellulose, but has no action on lignin.
III. Jandrier's Test for Cotton in Woolen Fabrics. Wash the sample of fabric and treat with sulphuric acid (20º Bé.) for half an hour on the water bath. To 100 to 200 parts of this solution add 1 part resorcin, and overlay on concentrated sulphuric acid free from nitrous products. The heat developed is sufficient to give a color at the contact point of the liquids, but intensity of color may be increased by slightly heating. If the product resulting from treating the cotton is made up 1 in 1,000, resorcin will give an orange color; alphanaphtol a purple; gallic acid a green gradually becoming violet down in the acid; hydroquinone or pyrogallol a brown; morphine or codeine, a lavender; thymol or menthol a pink. Cotton may be detected in colored goods, using boneblack to decolorize the solution, if necessary.
IV. Overbeck's test for cotton in woolen consists in soaking the fabric in an aqueous solution of alloxantine (1 in 10), and after drying expose to ammonia vapor and rinse in water. Woolen material is colored crimson, cotton remains blue.
V. Liebermann's Test. Dye the fabric for half an hour in fuchsine solution rendered light yellow by caustic soda solution and then washed with water silk is colored dark red; wool, light red; flax, pink; and cotton remains colorless.
To Distinguish Cotton from Linen. Take a sample about an inch and a half square of the cloth to be tested and plunge it into a tepid alcoholic solution of cyanine. After the coloring matter has been absorbed by the fiber, rinse it in water and then plunge into dilute sulphuric acid. If it is of cotton the sample will be almost completely bleached, while linen preserves the blue color almost unchanged. If the sample be then plunged in ammonia, the blue will be strongly reinforced.
Aromatic Cotton. Aromatic cotton is produced as follows : Mix camphor, 5 parts; pine-leaf oil, 5 parts; clove oil,v5 parts; spirit of wine (90 per cent), 80 parts; and distribute evenly on cotton, 500 parts, by means of an atomizer. The cotton is left pressed together in a tightly closed tin vessel for a few days.
Cotton Degreasing. Cotton waste, in a greasy condition, is placed in an acid-proof apparatus, where it is simultaneously freed from grease, etc., and prepared for bleaching by the following process, which is performed without the waste being removed from the apparatus: (1) treatment with a solvent, such as benzine; (2) steaming, for the purpose of vaporizing and expelling from the cotton waste the solvent still remaining in it after as much as possible of this has been recovered by draining; (3) treatment with a mineral acid; (4) boiling with an alkali lye; (5) washing with water.
COTTONSEED HULLS AS STOCK FOOD.
Cottonseed hulls or other material containing fiber difficult of digestion are thoroughly mixed with about 5 per cent of their weight of hydrochloric acid (specific gravity, 1.16), and heated in a closed vessel, provided with a stirrer, to a temperature of 212º to 300º F. The amount of acid to be added depends on the material employed and on the duration of the heating. By heating for 30 minutes the above percentage of acid is required, but the quantity may be reduced if the heating is prolonged. After heating, the substance is ground and at the same time mixed with some basic substances such as sodium carbonate, chalk, cottonseed kernel meal, etc., to neutralize the acid. During the heating, the acid vapors coming from the mixture may be led into a second quantity of material contained in a separate vessel, air being drawn through both vessels to facilitate the removal of the acid vapors.
COTTONSEED OIL:
See Oil.
COTTONSEED OIL IN FOOD, TESTS FOR:
See Foods.
COTTONSEED OIL IN LARD, DETECTION OF:
See Foods and Lard.
COUGH CANDY:
See Confectionery.
COUGH MIXTURES FOR CATTLE:
See Veterinary Formulas.
[247]
COURT PLASTERS - CREAM
COUGH MIXTURES AND REMEDIES:
See Cold and Cough Mixtures.
Court Plasters
(See also Plasters.)
Liquid Court Plaster.
I. If soluble guncotton is dissolved in acetone in the proportion of about 1 part, by weight, of the former to 35 or 40 parts, by volume, of the latter, and half a part each of castor oil and glycerine be added, a colorless, elastic, and flexible film will form on the skin wherever it is applied. Unlike ordinary collodion it will not be likely to dry and peel off. If tinted very slightly with alkanet and saffron it can be made to assume the color of the skin so that when applied it is scarcely observable. A mixture of warm solution of sodium silicate and casein, about 9 parts of the former to 1 part of the latter, gelatinizes and forms a sort of liquid court plaster.
II. In order to make liquid court plaster flexible, collodion, U.S.P., is the best liquid that can possibly be recommended. It may be made by weighing successively into a tarred bottle:
Collodion 4 av. ounces
Canada turpentine 95 grains
Castor oil 57 grains
Before applying, the skin should be perfectly dry; each application or layer should be permitted to harden. Three or four coats are usually sufficient.
III. Procure an ounce bottle and fill it three-fourths full of flexible collodion, and fill up with ether. Apply to cuts, bruises, etc., and it protects them and will not wash off. If the ether evaporates, leaving it too thick for use, have more ether put in to liquefy it. It is a good thing to have in the house and in the tool chest.
COW DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES:
See Veterinary Formulas.
CRAYONS:
See Pencils.
CRAYONS FOR GRAINING AND MARBLING.
Heat 4 parts of water and 1 part of white wax over a fire until the wax has completely dissolved. Stir in 1 part of purified potash. When an intimate combination has taken place, allow to cool and add a proportionate quantity of gum arabic. With this mixture the desired colors are ground thick enough so that they can be conveniently rolled into a pencil with chalk. The desired shades must be composed on the grinding slab as they are wanted, and must not be simply left in their natural tone. Use, for instance, umber, Vandyke brown, and white lead for oak; umber alone would be too dark for walnut use. All the earth colors can be conveniently worked up. It is best to prepare 2 or 3 crayons of each set, mixing the first a little lighter by the addition of white lead and leaving the others a little darker. The pencils should be kept in a dry place and are more suitable for graining and marbling than brushes, since they can be used with either oil or water.
CRAYONS FOR WRITING ON GLASS:
See Etching, and Glass.
Cream
(See also Milk.)
Whipped Cream. There are many ways to whip cream. The following is very highly indorsed: Keep the cream on ice until ready to whip. Take 2 earthen vessels about 6 inches in diameter. Into 1 bowl put 1 pint of rich sweet cream, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, and 5 drops of best vanilla extract. Add the white of 1 egg and beat with large egg beater or use whipping apparatus until 2 inches of froth has formed; skim off the froth into the other vessel and so proceed whipping and skimming until all the cream in the first vessel has been exhausted. The whipped cream will stand up all day and should be let stand in the vessel on ice.
Special machines have been constructed for whipping cream, but most dispensers prepare it with an ordinary egg beater. Genuine whipped cream is nothing other than pure cream into which air has been forced by the action of the different apparatus manufactured for the purpose; care must, however, be exercised in order that butter is not produced instead of whipped cream. To avoid this the temperature of the cream must be kept at a low degree and the whipping must not be too violent or prolonged; hence the following rules must be observed in order to produce the desired result:
[248]
CREAM - CRYSTAL CEMENTS
1. Secure pure cream and as fresh as possible.
2. Surround the bowl in which the cream is being whipped with cracked ice, and perform the operation in a cool place.
3. As rapidly as the whipped cream arises, skim it off and place it in another bowl, likewise surrounded with ice.
4. Do not whip the cream too long or too violently.
5. The downward motion of the beater should be more forcible than the upward, as the first has a tendency to force the air into the cream, while the second, on the contrary, tends to expel it.
6. A little powdered sugar should be added to the cream after it is whipped, in order to sweeten it.
7. Make whipped cream in small quantities and keep it on ice.
I. Cummins's Whipped Cream. Place 12 ounces of rich cream on the ice for about 1 hour; then with a whipper beat to a consistency that will withstand its own weight.
II. Eberle's Whipped Cream. Take a pint of fresh, sweet cream, which has been chilled by being placed on the ice, add to it a heaping tablespoonful of powdered sugar and 2 ounces of a solution of gelatin (a spoonful dissolved in 2 ounces of water), whip slowly for a minute or two until a heavy froth gathers on top. Skim off the dense froth, and put in container for counter use; continue this until you have frothed all that is possible.
III. Foy's Whipped Cream. Use only pure cream; have it ice cold, and in
a convenient dish for whipping with a wire whipper. A clear, easy, quick, and convenient way is to use a beater. Fill about one-half full of cream, and beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes; a little powdered sugar may be added before beating. The cream may be left in the beater, and placed on ice.
IV. American Soda Fountain Company's Whipped Cream. Take 2 earthen bowls and 2 tin pans, each 6 or 8 inches greater in diameter than the bowls; place a bowl in each pan, surround it with broken ice, put the cream to be whipped in 1 bowl, and whip it with a whipped cream churn. The cream should be pure and rich, and neither sugar nor gelatin should be added to it. As the whipped cream rises and fills the bowl, remove the churn, and skim off the whipped cream into the other bowl.
The philosophy of the process is that the churn drives air into the cream, and blows an infinity of tiny bubbles, which forms the whipped cream; therefore, in churning, raise the dasher gently and slowly, and bring it down quickly and forcibly. When the second bowl is full of whipped cream, pour off the liquid cream, which has settled to the bottom, into the first bowl, and whip it again. Keep the whipped cream on ice.
The addition of an even teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of sweet cream, before whipping, will make it whip up very readily and stiff, and stand up much longer and better.
CRESOL EMULSION.
One of the best starting points for the preparation is the "creosote" obtained from blast furnaces, which is rich in cresols and contains comparatively little phenols. The proportions used are: Creosote, 30 parts; soft soap, 10 parts; and solution of soda (10 per cent), 30 parts. Boil the ingredients together for an hour, then place aside to settle. The dark fluid is afterwards drained from any oily portion floating upon the top.
CREAM, COLD:
See Cosmetics.
CREAMS FOR THE FACE AND SKIN:
See Cosmetics.
CREOSOTE SOAP:
See Soap.
CROCKERY:
See Ceramics.
CROCKERY CEMENTS:
See Adhesives.
CROCUS.
The substance known as "crocus," which is so exceedingly useful as a polishing medium for steel, etc., may be very generally obtained in the cinders produced from coal containing iron. It will be easily recognized by its rusty color, and should be collected and reduced to a powder for future use. Steel burnishers may be brought to a high state of polish with this substance by rubbing them upon a buff made of soldiers' belt or hard wood. After this operation, the burnisher should be rubbed on a second buff charged with jewelers' rouge.
CRYSTAL CEMENTS FOR REUNITING BROKEN PIECES:
See Adhesives, under Cements.
[249]
CRYSTALLIZATION - DAMASKEENING
CRYSTALLIZATION, ORNAMENTAL:
See Gardens, Chemical.
CUCUMBER ESSENCE:
See Essences and Extracts.
CUCUMBER JELLY, JUICE, AND MILK:
See Cosmetics.
CURACOA CORDIAL:
See Wines and Liquors.
CURTAINS, COLORING OF:
See Laundry Preparations.
CURRY POWDER:
See Condiments.
CUSTARD POWDER:
Corn flour 7 pounds
Arrowroot 8 pounds
Oil of almond 20 drops
Oil of nutmegs 10 drops
Tincture of saffron to color.
Mix the tincture with a little of the mixed flours; then add the essential oils and make into a paste; dry this until it can be reduced to a powder, and then mix all the ingredients by sifting several times through a fine hair sieve.
CUTLERY CEMENTS:
See Adhesives.
CYLINDER OIL:
See Lubricants.
CYMBAL METAL:
See Alloys.
Damaskeening
Damaskeening, practiced from most ancient times, consists in ornamentally inlaying one metal with another, followed usually by polishing. Generally gold or silver is employed for inlaying. The article to be decorated by damaskeening is usually of iron (steel) or copper; in Oriental (especially Japanese) work, also frequently of bronze, which has been blackened, or, at least, darkened, so that the damaskeening is effectively set off from the ground. If the design consists of lines, the grooves are dug out with the graver in such a manner that they are wider at the bottom, so as to hold the metal forced in. Next, the gold or silver pieces suitably formed are laid on top and hammered in so as to fill up the opening. Finally the surface is gone over again, so that the surface of the inlay is perfectly even with the rest. If the inlays, however, are not in the form of lines, but are composed of larger pieces of certain outlines, they are sometimes allowed to project beyond the surface of the metal decorated. At times there are inlays again in the raised portions of another metal; thus, Japanese bronze articles often contain figures of raised gold inlaid with silver.
Owing to the high value which damaskeening imparts to articles artistically decorated, many attempts have been made to obtain similar effects in a cheaper manner. One is electroetching, described further on. Another process for the wholesale manufacture of objects closely resembling damaskeened work is the following: By means of a steel punch, on which the decorations to be produced project in relief, the designs are stamped by means of a drop hammer or a stamping press into gold plated or silver plated sheet metal on the side which is to show the damaskeening, finally grinding off the surface, so that the sunken portions are again level. Naturally, the stamped portion, as long as the depth of the stamping is at least equal to the thickness of the precious metal on top, will appear inlaid.
It is believed that much of the early damaskeening was done by welding together iron and either a steel or an impure or alloyed iron, and treating the surface with a corroding acid that affected the steel or alloy without changing the iron.
The variety or damaskeening known as koftgari or kuft-work, practiced in India, was produced by rough-etching a metallic surface and laying on gold-leaf, which was imbedded so that it adhered only to the etched parts of the design.
Damaskeening by Electrolysis. Damaskeening of metallic plates may be done by electrolysis. A copper plate is covered with an isolating layer of feeble thickness, such as wax, and the desired design is scratched in it by the use of a pointed tool. The plate is suspended in a bath of sulphate of copper, connecting it with the positive pole of a battery, while a second copper plate is connected with the negative pole. The current etches grooves wherever the wax has been removed. When enough has
[250]
DAMASKEENING - DECALCOMANIA PROCESSES
been eaten away, remove the plate from the bath, cleanse it with a little hydrochloric acid to remove any traces of oxide of copper which might appear on the lines of the design; then wash it in plenty of water and place it in a bath of silver or nickel, connecting it now with the negative pole, the positive pole being represented by a leaf of platinum. After a certain time the hollows are completely filled with a deposit of silver or nickel, and it only remains to polish the plate, which has the appearance of a piece damaskeened by hand.
Damaskeening on Enamel Dials. Dip the dial into molten yellow wax, trace on the dial the designs desired, penetrating down to the enamel. Dip the dial in a fluorhydric acid a sufficient length of time that it may eat to the desired depth. Next, wash in several waters, remove the wax bv means of turpentine, i.e, leave the piece covered with wax immersed in essence of turpentine. By filling up the hollows thus obtained with enamel very pretty effects are produced.
DANDRUFF CURE:
See Hair Preparations.
DECALCOMANIA PROCESSES:
See also Chromos, Copying Processes, and Transfer Processes.
The decalcomania process of transferring pictures requires that the print (usually in colors) be made on a specially prepared paper. Prints made on decalcomania paper may be transferred in the reverse to china ware, wood, celluloid, metal, or any hard smooth surface, and being varnished after transfer (or burnt in, in the case of pottery) acquire a fair degree of permanence. The original print is destroyed by the transfer.
Applying Decalcomania Pictures on Ceramic' Products under a Glaze. A biscuit-baked object is first coated with a mixture of alcohol, shellac, varnish, and liquid glue. Then the prepared picture print is transferred on to this adhesive layer in the customary manner. The glaze, however, does not adhere to this coating and would, therefore, not cover the picture when fused on. To attain this, the layer bearing the transfer picture, as well as the latter, are simultaneously coated with a dextrin solution of about 10 per cent. When this dextrin coating is dry, the picture is glazed.
The mixing proportions of the two solutions employed, as well as of the adhesive and the dextrin solutions, vary somewhat according to the physical conditions of the porcelain, its porosity, etc. The following may serve for an example: Dissolve 5 parts of shellac or equivalent gum in 25 parts of spirit and emulsify this liquid with 20 parts of varnish and 8 parts of liquid glue. After drying, the glaze is put on and the ware thus prepared is placed in the grate fire.
The process described is especially adapted for film pictures, i.e, for such as bear the picture on a cohering layer, usually consisting of collodion. It cannot be employed outright for gum pictures, i.e, for such pictures as are composed of different pressed surfaces, consisting mainly of gum or similar material. If this process is to be adapted to these pictures as well, the ware, which has been given the biscuit baking, is first provided with a crude glaze coating, whereupon the details of the process are carried out as described above with the exception that there is another glaze coating between the adhesive coat and the biscuit-baked ware. In this case the article is also immediately placed in the grate fire. It is immaterial which of the two kinds of metachromatypes (transfer pictures) is used, in every case the baking in the muffle, etc., is dropped. The transfer pictures may also be produced in all colors for the grate fire.
Decalcomania Paper. Smooth unsized paper, not too thick, is coated with
the following solutions:
I. Gelatin, 10 parts, dissolved in 300 parts warm water. This solution is applied with a sponge. The paper should be dried flat.
II. Starch, 50 parts; gum tragacanth, dissolved in 600 parts of water.
(The gum tragacanth is soaked in 300 parts of water; in the other 300 parts the starch is boiled to a paste; the two are then poured together and boiled.) The dried paper is brushed with this paste uniformly, a fairly thick coat being applied. The paper is then allowed to dry again.
III. One part blood albumen is soaked in 3 parts water for 24 hours. A small quantity of sal ammoniac is added.
The paper, after having been coated with these three solutions and dried, is run through the printing press, the pictures, however, being printed reversed so that it may appear in its true position when transferred. Any colored inks may be used.
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